White Sulphur Springs and Taylor Gordon

Taylor Gordon was one of Montana’s most accomplished performers of the early twentieth century, although his fame as a singer happened not in Montana but in New York City.

Main Street, White Sulphur Springs, 2011

He was born in 1893 and grew up in White Sulphur Springs, the seat of Meagher County. While his family home no longer stands, there are several important landmarks that help tell his story.

The depot in 1984. It had been restored two years earlier for the movie Heartland

The first is the surviving depot for the White Sulphur Springs and Yellowstone Park railroad which connected the town to the main line of the Milwaukee Road at the town of Ringling, about 20 miles to the south. Both places are important to Gordon’s story due to his association with John Ringling.

Overview of Ringling, 2018
Milwaukee Road depot and tracks at Ringling 1985

Ringling was a town first named Leader when the Milwaukee Road came through Meagher County in 1907. It became associated with circus magnate John Ringling who owned thousands of acres of ranch land in the county and had big dreams for developing the area, including ranches, the hot springs, and railroads. Milwaukee Road officials were interested too in having an attraction for passenger traffic on the way to its terminus to Yellowstone at Gallatin Gateway.

Parberry-Ringling house, built c. 1885. It is now an events center

Around 1910 Ringling acquired the Dr. William Parberry house, a Queen Anne style house at the western end of town. Parberry had been one of the town’s founders. Ringling made it a family summer home. By 1911 he had hired Taylor Gordon as a driver, and general worker on the property. Within months Gordon became what we now might call a personal assistant (Ringling’s personal valet) and he traveled extensively with Ringling. Those travels led to his music career, especially as a duet act with J. Rosamond Johnson who accompanied Gordon on the piano. Their interpretations of African American spirituals gained wide acclaim. They toured throughout the nation in addition to England and Europe.

During these years Gordon was a significant figure in the Harlem Renaissance, which influenced American music, art, and literature. His memoir of growing up and finding his voice, and place, as a singer—titled Born to Be—was published in 1929. The book remains an important source on the Harlem Renaissance as well as the life of a young man in New York City during the Jazz Age.

Gordon and Johnson continued performing into the early 1930s. In the mid 1930s he temporarily moved back to White Sulphur Springs and wrote a novel, which was never published. The Great Depression stalled his career and by WW II he was a factory worker. In 1947 he fell prey to mental illness and was hospitalized for most of the next 12 years. In 1959 he returned to White Sulphur Springs.

Wellman Block, 1985

His sister Rose operated a cafe from the Wellman Block. Gordon would open an antique shop there, and the building also served as the town’s post office at that time. Twenty years ago, the Wellman Block was renovated into the headquarters of Red Ants Pants, a nationally recognized clothing line for work clothes. Red Ants Pants also organizes and hosts an annual music festival in Meagher County. The building is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Wellman Block, 2011

The Gordons became significant local historians in the 1960s and 1960s. Rose contributed history columns to the county newspaper and was a leader in the county’s centennial celebration in 1967. Taylor became involved with the restoration of the historic Sherman House, known as The Castle, the town’s first major historic preservation project. It too is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

The Castle, 1984
The Castle, 2011

Gordon assisted with the interior restoration and furnishings for the museum. He also wrote the house’s first history and guidebook.

As a youngster he had worked for Byron Sherman, the topic of his book and the owner of the stone mansion. The Meagher County Historical Society guided the restoration and today the society administers the house and adjacent museum.

Like other members of his family Taylor Gordon was buried at the Mayn Cemetery in White Sulphur Springs upon his death in 1971.

His story is remarkable and the surviving historic properties allow us to walk in his footsteps.

Terry in the Yellowstone Valley

Terry, the seat of Prairie County, is an often forgotten, bypassed part of the Yellowstone River valley. Yet it has long been one of my favorite places, beginning with my first exploration of its history and landscape in 1984.

The Yellowstone west of Terry in 1984

The valley is stunning—the river is wide and commanding buttes and badland outcroppings flank either river bank, as do the tracks of the Northern Pacific Railroad (now Burlington Santa Fe) on the river’s south side and the later automobile Yellowstone Trail (old U.S. 10).

The Yellowstone in 1984

Once from 1997 to c 1980 the tracks of the Milwaukee Road ran along the north side of the river, from east of Terry into Miles City. Today you can still see traces of its roadbed and right of way.

Milwaukee Road right of way, east of Terry, 2014

In the 1980s residents impressed me greatly with their sense of, and pride in, their settlement past.

Heritage tourism sign, c1985

For my work on the state historic preservation plan in 1984, I held a community meeting in Terry, at the recently established Prairie County Museum.

The county museum 1985

It was a converted State Bank Building, an architecturally impressive 2-story Classical Revival-style building, anchoring one of the corners of the business district. The historical society had basically just moved in and kept many of the ban’s interior details and furnishings and used them to place objects on.

Exhibits, c. 1988

The meeting was a lot of fun, at least for me. And I learned a valuable lesson—listen and observe, don’t immediately judge. The example was a small graveyard, near the confluence of the Yellowstone and Powder Rivers, where the museum had installed a low fence and basic interpretive sign.

Pioneer/Buffalo Hunters graveyard, 1984

I acknowledged that this site was clearly significant but offered that without an interstate highway sign (an exit was less than a mile away) or a marker on old U.S. 10, which was adjacent to the cemetery), “no one knows that it exists or where to find it.” One resident then remarked: “son, we know where it is and what it means.” I have never made that boneheaded mistake again.

Interpretive sign, US Highway 10, in 1984

In the 1980s, another museum devoted to the amazing photography of Evelyn Cameron was established, in a historic building next to the museum.

Cameron gallery, 1985
Cameron gallery, 2014

The impressive preservation work already underway in Terry was not the only reason I liked Terry. It was a “double railroad” town, that still had its northern Pacific depot at the top of the “T” in the classic t-town plan found in some many Montana towns.

Northern Pacific corridor, 1988

Then its county courthouse was one of the most unassuming public buildings in the state.

County Courthouse 1984

Plus there were two can’t miss heritage tourism experiences. The historic Kempton Hotel, a huge rambling, fascinating place is where I spent a night.

Kempton Hotel, 2014

And I probably had too much to eat and drink at the local bar/cafe, Bud ‘n’ Bette’s. Bud and Bette Goplen owned and operated the place. Bud died in the 1990s but Bette kept it going until the end of the century. Not only were the pours generous and the beer cold, but they sold one of the best caramel rolls in the valley. And yes it did have prints of C.M. Russell paintings plastered along the walls and a fairly size-able Jim Beam decanter and bottle collection. What a place!

Little did I know that when I visited Terry in 1984, 1985, and 1988, it was during its height. Today the town’s and county’s population is about half of what it was in the 1980s.

The business district in 1994
Business district in 2014

The county courthouse has been modernized and enlarged while the Northern Pacific depot has been moved to the museum’s block.

All images from 2014

Much had changed in the 20 years between visits in 1994 and 2014. When I had the chance to stop for a moment in 2026, I was concerned with the condition of the Northern Pacific caboose.

At the same time I was very happy to see the excellent condition of the early 20th century Terry school. It is a great building, so expressive of the founders’ hope for the town and county. 100 years ago.

School in 1988
School in 2026
School in 2026

I already noted in an earlier post the transformation of the hunters graveyard along old U.S. Highway 10–it is now one of the best interpreted sites along the Yellowstone River. Along the interpretive panels there is a short-distance walking trail with great views of the river plus you can easily see both the historic bridges over the Powder River at the confluence of the Powder and Yellowstone rivers.

All images from 2026

And residents of Prairie County are not done. In partnership with the Montana History Foundation, the state historical society, and the county economic development office, they have added other markers about the deep history of this place in the Yellowstone valley.

Just wish I had a caramel roll from Bud ‘n’ Bette’s!

The Future for Bozeman’s modern landmark?

Bozeman is one of those Montana towns where historic preservation has played a positive economic and cultural role in local development for two generations.

Federal building, Bozeman in 2014

This it comes as a surprise when you hear that a public agency, in this case the federal General Services Administration, is considering letting the downtown landmark Federal Building pass from public hands.

The building dates to 1966, as is evident from its modern style, so 1960s. The firm of Hamill and Associates designed it in the New Formalist style made popular by architect E.D. Stone. It was built during a decade of growth, from a town of 13,000 in 1960 to a place of 18,000 by 1970. The new post office, and the agencies who were headquartered at the building, contributed significantly to the boom that occurred in Bozeman over the last third of the 20th century. In other words, important work took place here.

The city government has asked for the building to stay public, and be transferred to the city. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and the city has amply demonstrated the ability and the commitment necessary for the preservation and use of National Register properties. So let’s hope that transfer takes place. Bozeman cannot afford to lose another modernist landmark.

Great Falls Resurgence

Montana newspapers this week featured a story about economic resurgence in Great Falls, where the population has remained basically level in the 21st century while other Montana cities have grown by leaps and bounds. Readers of this blog recognize that I am a big booster of what heritage and historic preservation has meant to the city, and certainly that pride in history and culture you find anytime you visit Great Falls as I found during a fall 2025 visit.

The proliferation of colorful, descriptive murals enliven downtown commercial buildings, including the highway underpass at the restored Milwaukee Road passenger station. the topic has been historic—witness the penetrating graze of town founder, Paris Gibson, below.

Or if it is a more abstract design in the city’s commercial heart ( the reproduction city street lights add charm too).

Downtown recreation is another positive change, as the river trail between the tracks of the Great Northern Railway and the Missouri River continues to expand and improve.

One of the state’s best skateparks also adds significantly to recreation, and community building in Great Falls.

And speaking to community building the restoration and adaptive reuse of downtown buildings create nighttime gathering spots, giving residents plenty of reason to come downtown. The Celtic Cowboy, located in a circa 1890 livery building, has become a popular pub while the owe era of Smoked took a 1930s building and made it a must-stop place for Barbeque.

Even the iconic Sip-N-Dip lounge has announced a renovation and improvements to this mid-20th century landmark.

My stop in Great Falls last October centered around a check of the renovation of the National Register-listed Union Bethel AME Church. Like many others I supported its grant application and I was pleased to see work underway to ensure another 100 years for this landmark.

No doubt the protection of the city’s historic buildings and finding new community uses for them continues as an anchor for Great Falls, be it the Children’s Museum or the impressive History Museum and Archives. Both are located along the city’s historic railroad corridor.

Preserving and telling local stories but Great Falls is further enhanced by two major national institutions—the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail interpretive center and the Charles M. Russell Museum.

The Russell continues to expand, and amaze, as it evolves from a regional to truly national cultural center. The city too is trending in that direction, which means that next visit will certainly be sooner than later.

Pekin Noddle Parlor: Sad news from Butte

Today’s newspapers (April 24, 2026) bore the sad news that the Tam family has decided to close the iconic Pekin Noodle Parlor in Uptown Butte. For well over 100 years the family operated from this 2-story brick building at 117 South Main.

The building is nearby to another historic Chinese associated building on West Mercury, which is home to a museum about the Chinese in Butte and Montana.

The Montana Standard sees the restaurant’s closing as a developing story so perhaps we will soon know about the future of the historic building

Good news in Billings

The Foundation for Montana History does many good things across the Treasure State. The Foundation announced its new round of grant awards and I was extremely happy to learn of the grant for a preservation study for the Westetn Heritage Center.

WHC in 1986

The WHC has been an outstanding regional museum for decades and my professional relationship with the museum is almost 45 years in duration.

WHC in 1986

The building was constructed at the turn of the century in honor of Parmly Billings, a pivotal figure in the city’s early development. He was the son of Frederick Billings, the city’s founder and namesake. Parmly’s brother, Frederick, Jr., donated funds for the building to be the Parmly Billings Memorial Library. Montana architect Charles S. Haire designed the library in a Richardsonian Romanesque style. Supervising the project were several leaders of Billings including Albert Babcock and I.D. O’Donnell, who had been a good friend of Parmly.

In the early 1990s visionary WHC director Lynda Bourque Moss reconnected the museum with the Billings heirs and they helped to fund a renovation that restored the original entrance and name and also reorganized the landscape so that a statue of Frederick Billings, which had stood alone in front of a city parking garage, could stand in front of the building.

The Billings statue at the city parking garage 1988
WHC in 1993
WHC in late 1993 with Billings statue
WHC in 1993

I was involved with the museum both for the research of my book Capitalism on the Frontier: The Transformation of Billings and the Yellowstone Valley (1993) and an award winning exhibit on the valley’s history that was created in 1990s.

Since then I have of course visited the museum on numerous occasions. In the new century, the museum accepted the donation of the J.K. Ralston studio to the east corner of the property.

WHC in 2011
Ralston cabin at Rocky Mountain College 1991
Ralston cabin installed at WHC, 2011

it has been over 30 years since the mid-1990s renovations and so it’s time for a new preservation assessment of this very significant building. Congrats to the Foundation for Montana History for making it happen!

WHC in 2025

John C. Paulsen, Montana architect

One of the most important late 19th century architects in Montana was German-born and -trained John C. Paulsen (1853-1897). He arrived in Helena in 1887 and soon joined with contractor Noah McConnell to establish the firm of Paulsen & McConnell, which existed until its dissolution in 1891.

One of the firm’s early commissions, the Jefferson County Courthouse in Boulder, enhanced its reputation for public architecture. its stately mix of brick and stone, dominated by a central tower with a commanding arch entry makes it one of the state’s most impressive Late Victorian era designs.

The firm had many significant commissions for private homes in Helena in the years 1887-1890. A select few that are listed in the National Register of Historic Places are shown below:

Sienna Hall, 1887 (1986 photo)
Spalding-Gunn House, 1888-1889, which was part of Preserve Montana’s 2025 Hidden Helena tour
A remodel of the Wilbur F. Sanders House, c 1887 (1988 photo)
Neill House, c. 1888, remodeled significantly by Cass Gilbert, 1908 (1986 photo)
Image of Neill House before Cass Gilbert remodeling, image courtesy of P.L. Dean, Helena

Perhaps most importantly there was Paulsen’s own home on the west side of town, which was built in 1889 and featured in the Hidden Helena 2025 tour. From the exterior the home doesn’t seem too splashy but the interior is one of the city’s best Arts and Crafts styled interior designs..

Another Helena landmark attributed to Paulsen is the Lewis and Clark County Jail, which was converted about 100 years later to the Myrna Loy Theatre.

Lewis and County Jail (1996 image)

One of Paulsen’s commercial buildings in Helena still stands, altered at an unknown date, on east Broadway.

Image taken in 2018

With John Lavalle as a partner, Paulsen also designed the downtown Montana Club but after a fire and major redesign by Cass Gilbert, nothing remains of Paulsen’s design outside of some of the stone, perhaps, reused on the first floor.

A much more intact example of Paulsen’s commercial designs is the landmark Higgins Block in downtown Missoula, another National Register building associated with Paulsen’s work.

Higgins Block, c 1986 image
Higgins Block, 2006 image

In 1895, Paulsen was appointed State Architect and several of Montana’s best known turn of the 20th century public buildings are from his designs.

First the Montana Deaf and Dumb Asylum in Boulder (images from 1986 to 2021):

One of my favorites, the original building for Montana Western College (now Montana State University Western) in Dillon:

The Butte landmark Main Hall at Montana Tech University

And Paulsen’s best known building, the iconic Main Hall of Montana State University in Bozeman.

Paulsen’s career became mired in controversy over the design of the new state Capitol building in Helena. After grand jury investigations in 1897 Paulsen allegedly had a nervous breakdown that led to heart complications and he died in Helena. Yet his late Victorian designs for many home and public buildings remain as a reminder of his imprint on the state’s built environment.

Judith Landing over 40 years

There are few places in the nation more important than the broad river valley at the confluence of the Judith and Missouri rivers in central Montana, a place only accessible by historic gravel roads. When I first visited in 1984, I came from the Fergus County side through Winifred.

View from MT 236 north of Winifred, 1984

Why is Judith Landing so important? It was a vital and frequently used crossroads for Northern Plains tribes for centuries. Then in 1805 as Lewis and Clark traveled on the Missouri, they camped at the confluence (private property today). In 1844, The American Fur Company established Fort Chardon, a short-lived trading post.

In 1846 Indigenous leaders of several tribes met at Council Island to discuss relations between the Blackfeet and other northwest tribes. In 1855 leaders from the Blackfeet, Salish, Pend d’Oreille, and Nez Perce returned to Council Island to negotiate the Lame Bull treaty, which established communal hunting areas and paved the way for white settlement in the late 1860s and early 1870s.

Settlement first came with trading posts, serving a nearby army base, Camp Cooke (1866-1870) and connecting steamboat traffic on the Missouri to nearly mining camps (like Maiden). When the U.S. government moved the base, Fort Benton merchant T.C. Power developed his own businesses and post at Judith Landing and established “Fort Clagett” to the immediate west. In the 1880s he partnered with Gilman Norris to create the famous PN Ranch from the remnants of these early settlement efforts.

Visiting this place was a major goal of the 1984 historic preservation plan survey. At that time the ranch was still operating as a ranch and the one slide that I took shows several of the historic and new ranch buildings, yes from a distance because in the work I always respected private property boundaries.

Over the next 40 years I worked in Montana many times but never made a return to Judith Landing. I knew that the historic buildings of the PN ranch were there and that a National Register district existed affording some protection. Then in late 2024 came the news that Montana State Parks was acquiring 109 acres of the historic property and would create the Judith Landing State Park. I couldn’t wait to return and visited in late September 2025.

Interpretation and maps at the parking area
Path to the park buildings

At that time there had been little in the way of “park development.” I hope it largely stays that way because the sense of time and place conveyed by the rustic, rugged surroundings is overwhelming. You can be lost in history.

The half-dovetail “mail barn” was moved to its location on the ranch about 1890. It continued to serve as a post office until 1919.

The stone warehouse was severely damaged in a flood 50 years ago—but it is hanging on, and indicates how important trade and commodities were here 150 years ago. It operated as a store until 1934 and then became a barn for the next 40 years until the flood of 1975.

Gilman and Pauline Norris’s own ranch house, a turn of the twentieth century Shingle-style beauty, speaks to the ranch’s success. perhaps it can be restored as a future park interpretive center, open in the summer.

Historic path/road down to the river landing from the front of the ranch house.

The important point is that, now, finally, Judith Landing is a state park, conserving one of the most remarkable places of the northern plains.

Kalispell’s modernist traditions

Kalispell is the seat of Flathead County, established on the Great Northern Railroad line in the 1890s. Today the city is the hub for commerce, transportation and medical care in northwest Montana. The Advisory Council on Historic Preservation designated it as a Preserve America community in recognition of its historic downtown and multiple National Register of Historic Places properties.

Certainly the town has many impressive late Victorian era buildings, like the County Courthouse, but this post focuses on a part of Kalispell’s historic built environment that doesn’t get enough attention—its buildings of modern 20th century styles.

The key town founder was C. E. Conrad and similar to how he started the town, you could also say he started the modernist traditions by commissioning his grand Shingle-style mansion from architect A.J.Gibson in 1895. Architectural historians consider the Shingle style, introduced by major American architects Henry Hobson Richardson and the New York Firm McKim, Mead, and White, to be an important precursor to the modernist buildings that would flourish in Kalispell during the 1930s.

Another important example of early modernist style is this local adaptation of Prairie house style, a form introduced and popularized by the designs of American master Frank Lloyd Wright.

Kalispell’s best modernist examples come from the 1930s to 1960s. In 1931 Brinkman designed the KCFW-TV building in a striking Art Deco style. It was originally a gas station but has been restored as an office building with its landmark tower intact.

The Strand Theatre closed as a movie house in 2007 but its colorful Art Deco marquee and facade remain, another landmark across the street from the History Museum which is housed in the old high school.

The Eagles Lodge (1948-1949) is an impressive example of late Art Deco style, especially influenced by the federal “WPA Moderne” buildings from the New Deal. G.D. Weed was the architect.

Then the town opened Elrod School in 1951. It is a good example of mid-century International style in a public building.

The 1950s decade witnessed new modern style religious buildings. The Central Bible Church (1953) evolved from a merger of Central Bible and the West Side Norwegian Methodist Church. Harry Schmautz was the architect.

That same year, the Lutheran church added a new wing for its youth ministry, the Hjortland Memorial, which is one of Kalispell’s most impressive 1950s design. Ray Thone was the architect.

In 1958 Central Christian Church completely remodeled its earlier 1908 building to a striking modern design.

That same year came the opening of St. Matthew Catholic School, an impressive two-story example of International style in an institutional building. the architect was the firm of Brinkman and Lenon.

Architectural rendering published in Flathead News and Farm journal, May 16, 1957

Kalispell also has two excellent examples of commercial buildings in the mid-century contemporary style. Below is the stone veneer and window wall of the McGarvey and Townsend building.

But my favorite, until a recent “remuddling,” is the Sutherland Dry Cleaners, now a golf supply shop.

The Sutherland business in 2015
The same building in 2023

Kalispell has several good examples of mid-century domestic design. My favorite is this Ranch-style residence near the Conrad Mandion.

This post doesn’t include all of Kalispell’s modernist designs but hopefully I have included enough to demonstrate that the town has a significant modernist architecture tradition.

Tower Rock State Park

Since my initial survey of Montana historic places in 1984-1985, Montana state parks has established several small but significant historic parks. One of these, Tower Rock State Park, is viewed by hundreds of drivers daily, as it is located directly on Interstate I-15 along the Missouri River Canyon in southern Cascade County.

Native Americans traveling from their Rocky Mountain homelands into the game-rich high plains, used the rock formation, over 400 feet high, as a landmark between the two regions. The Bitterroot Salish, Lower Kootenay, and the Piegan Blackfeet are all associated with the place. For the Piegan Blackfeet it was and is a sacred place. Groups camped in the vicinity between the Rock and Missouri River.

When on July 16, 1805 Capt. Meriwether Lewis of the famous Corps of Discovery encountered the Rock on his journey west, he noted the presence of what he called an “Indian road” around the Rock. He then decided to name the place and wrote in his journal: “this rock I called the tower. it may be ascended with some difficulty nearly to its summit, and from it there is a most pleasing view of the country we are now about to leave. from it I saw this evening immence herds of buffaloe in the plains below.”

The surrounding region’s development took place in the late 19th century, accelerated by the decision of the Manitoba Road to built through the canyon a rail link connecting Great Falls, Helena and Butte. This line became known as the Montana Central Railroad.

In the early 20th century came an automobile route, U.S. Highway 91, and then the interstate highway in 1968. Interestingly, the property’s official designation as a historic site came much later. Tower Rock was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 2002. Two years later, it became a state park of about 140 acres.

The park is day-use only but there is adequate public interpretation. There is also a maintained trail to the Rock’s base, allowing for a more direct experience with landscape and some mitigation of the noise from the highway. The importance of the place deserves a more robust treatment but perhaps more can come in the future ( and the adjacent disposal center can be moved to a more appropriate location).