My exploration of historic town cemeteries in Montana over the last two years ends at one of my favorite county seats, Harlowton, the seat of Wheatland County. Located on bluffs overlooking the Musselshell River, Harlowton is a classic railroad town, full of interesting and architecturally compelling buildings.
The two cemeteries share that significance. The city cemetery dates to c. 1907 and coincides with the construction of the Milwaukee Road through the valley.
A key focus of the cemetery is its veterans memorial, built with local stone in 1927 by the Al-Be-Dad Shrine Club. The stone pillar is topped with a gold American eagle, similar to other war memorials across the state from the 1920s. It is dedicated to all veterans of American wars.
The distinctive metal marker for June Adeline Ehler Vezey dates to 1997.
There are over 2000 burials at the Harlowton Cemetery. The Harlowton Catholic Cemetery is much smaller. The first burials took place in late 1907.
The prominent cross marker for Leopold Labrie is dated 1884 but probably represents a memorial. Other family members are buried nearby.
The rectangular shape of the cemetery is defined by a high hedge that surrounds it.
Both cemeteries are irrigated and well maintained, a reflection of the deep respect for their past held by residents of Harlowtown and Wheatland County.
For almost 50 years the Sun River Valley Historical Society has undertaken the preservation and restoration of Fort Shaw (1867-1891), one of the most important federal sites in the west. When I first met and talked with the group in 1984 during the state historic preservation planning process, efforts were just underway, focused on the officers duplex, the wash house, and bakery.
Officers duplex
Now I would like to focus on achievements of the last 10 years since the last visit in 2013. I have posted earlier about how the society has restored the cemetery. This post is about the regimental officers quarters, where restoration began with repairing the historic adobe walls in 2014 and continued with a comprehensive interior restoration over the next several years.
Commanding Officers quarters
While the first restored building serves as a general history exhibit about the fort and immediate region, the society restored the Commanding Officers quarters as a period historic building.
Dining roomParlor
Within the period objects found in each room, the society also empathizes a “First Lady” theme, adding a strong historic textiles collection to the museum.
Restored interior doors and floorsRestored staircase and flooring
The society took care with the kitchen and also addressed the presence of Chinese cooks at the property. The federal census of 1880 records 5 Chinese men at Fort Shaw. A letter from 1887 documents that Ah Wai was employed as a cook for the private company that operated the post’s mess hall and store. The Fort Shaw Indian School superintendent, who may have resided in this building, hired Joe Ling as a cook in 1898.
A bedstead for an unidentified Chinese cook at Fort Shaw is located within the pantry of the building Bedrooms arranged in the second floor—note the massive chimney flue of adobe brick.Desk within officer’s bedroomCentral hall restoration, first floor
My initial impression is that the many period objects are both a blessing and a curse. A blessing is that the furnishings make the place “come alive” and creates ample opportunities for storytelling about the inhabitants. It reinforces the Victorian era that the fort was part of—and the storyline of military families in the west. The curse is that the rooms may have too many objects—and few that are directly tied to the property. Do overfurnished interiors overwhelm the visitors visually—it is too much to take in?
Such is the challenge of the period room historic house museum. If the past here is any indication, the preservation of Fort Shaw is far from over—I look forward to future visits.
This week Chico Hot Springs and 500-plus acres were sold—shocking news for many but really not surprising, considering what happened earlier in the year at Izaak Walton Inn in Essex. A big development company that operates high end hotels and resorts from California to New York purchased the property and surrounding acreage for $33 million.
First I am glad the long-term owners got “paid.” They deserved it. They have been successful and effective stewards of this special place, a property I first documented during the historic preservation plan survey in 1984.
Chico Hot Springs in 1984
Let’s hope the new owners “get it” and respect the history and traditions of the place. After all it is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. (You can read my earlier 2016 blog “Chico Hot Springs” on the place for more on the history).
Detail of one-story wing in 1984
The place has changed in my 40 years of visiting. By the 21st century, the one-story side wing had grown to two stories and a small conference center had been built.
2011 view from second story windowConvention center in 2006
However these changes left the historic barn and stables intact. My children loved to pet the horses at the barn.
Barn in 2006
Over the last 40 years other buildings were added: cabins, wagons, separate spa and more—but the historic lodge remained at the center and the heart of the experience. From 1984 to today, Chico had evolved into a destination not just a hot springs pool with an absolute killer bar and restaurant. (In fact the restaurant has been legendary for almost 50 years and was highlighted in the classic western movie “Rancho Deluxe” from 1975.)
Sazerac 75Prime rib—a house special for over 40 years.
Throughout the changes the rustic feel, the early 20th century aura of the place remained. The lobby had the same lumpy chairs, the same heavy tables, well worn. If you had to have more modem facilities, they had it. But if you wanted a taste of the west from decades ago, you had the lobby—the perfect place to have a great cup of coffee and watch people in way too big of a hurry.
And you have the plain, no air conditioner third floor rooms—a bed, sink, and common bathroom down the hall. I have heard now for years that visitors complain about the third floor. I really hope the renovation leave these plain but comfortable rooms as they are.
Chico has many character defining nooks and crannies that could disappear in an over-wrought renovation. There’s no need to make every room a $300 “suite”. Do that in the modern additions of the last 30 years; respect the old historic inn and the pool. Keep Chico accessible to all, not just the few.
Montana's Historic Landscapes 