Terry in the Yellowstone Valley

Posted on October 8, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Terry, the seat of Prairie County, is an often forgotten, bypassed part of the Yellowstone River valley. Yet it has long been one of my favorite places, beginning with my first exploration of its history and landscape in 1984.

The valley is stunning—the river is wide and commanding buttes and badland outcroppings flank either river bank, as do the tracks of the Northern Pacific Railroad (now Burlington Santa Fe) on the river’s south side and the later automobile Yellowstone Trail (old U.S. 10).

Once from 1997 to c 1980 the tracks of the Milwaukee Road ran along the north side of the river, from east of Terry into Miles City. Today you can still see traces of its roadbed and right of way.

Milwaukee Road right of way, east of Terry, 2014

In the 1980s residents impressed me greatly with their sense of, and pride in, their settlement past.

For my work on the state historic preservation plan in 1984, I held a community meeting in Terry, at the recently established Prairie County Museum.

It was a converted State Bank Building, an architecturally impressive 2-story Classical Revival-style building, anchoring one of the corners of the business district. The historical society had basically just moved in and kept many of the ban’s interior details and furnishings and used them to place objects on.

The meeting was a lot of fun, at least for me. And I learned a valuable lesson—listen and observe, don’t immediately judge. The example was a small graveyard, near the confluence of the Yellowstone and Powder Rivers, where the museum had installed a low fence and basic interpretive sign.

I acknowledged that this site was clearly significant but offered that without an interstate highway sign (an exit was less than a mile away) or a marker on old U.S. 10, which was adjacent to the cemetery), “no one knows that it exists or where to find it.” One resident then remarked: “son, we know where it is and what it means.” I have never made that boneheaded mistake again.

Interpretive sign, US Highway 10, in 1984

In the 1980s, another museum devoted to the amazing photography of Evelyn Cameron was established, in a historic building next to the museum.

The impressive preservation work already underway in Terry was not the only reason I liked Terry. It was a “double railroad” town, that still had its northern Pacific depot at the top of the “T” in the classic t-town plan found in some many Montana towns.

Then its county courthouse was one of the most unassuming public buildings in the state.

Plus there were two can’t miss heritage tourism experiences. The historic Kempton Hotel, a huge rambling, fascinating place is where I spent a night.

And I probably had too much to eat and drink at the local bar/cafe, Bud ‘n’ Bette’s. Bud and Bette Goplen owned and operated the place. Bud died in the 1990s but Bette kept it going until the end of the century. Not only were the pours generous and the beer cold, but they sold one of the best caramel rolls in the valley. And yes it did have prints of C.M. Russell paintings plastered along the walls and a fairly size-able Jim Beam decanter and bottle collection. What a place!

Little did I know that when I visited Terry in 1984, 1985, and 1988, it was during its height. Today the town’s and county’s population is about half of what it was in the 1980s.

The county courthouse has been modernized and enlarged while the Northern Pacific depot has been moved to the museum’s block.

Much had changed in the 20 years between visits in 1994 and 2014. When I had the chance to stop for a moment in 2026, I was concerned with the condition of the Northern Pacific caboose.

At the same time I was very happy to see the excellent condition of the early 20th century Terry school. It is a great building, so expressive of the founders’ hope for the town and county. 100 years ago.

I already noted in an earlier post the transformation of the hunters graveyard along old U.S. Highway 10–it is now one of the best interpreted sites along the Yellowstone River. Along the interpretive panels there is a short-distance walking trail with great views of the river plus you can easily see both the historic bridges over the Powder River at the confluence of the Powder and Yellowstone rivers.

And residents of Prairie County are not done. In partnership with the Montana History Foundation, the state historical society, and the county economic development office, they have added other markers about the deep history of this place in the Yellowstone valley.

Just wish I had a caramel roll from Bud ‘n’ Bette’s!

Mountain View Cemetery in Big Timber

Posted on September 24, 2026 by carrollvanwest

About 13 years ago, I made a quick stop at the Mountain View Cemetery in Big Timber. Located south of the interstate exit, next to the local historical society museum, the cemetery’s well crafted stone gates, walls, and stone office dated to a Works Projects Administration undertaking in the late 1930s.

Thirteen years later, in the summer of 2026, I took the time to explore beyond the gates and found a quite fascinating place, full of interesting grave markers and stories.

On the north side of the cemetery is a tall concrete obelisk dedicated to Vivian Ogilvie, who died in 1967. A native of Sweet Grass County, she graduated from high school and then worked on ranches around Melville. In about 1935 she moved to California to train as a nurse and made her career there before returning with her husband George Ogilvie to Big Timber in 1964.

Adjacent to the Ogilvie markers is a large ornate granite marker for Santos Forsythe, who grew up in the Melville area. He died in 1918, at the age of 30. A member of the Elk lodge in Livingston, he received a heartfelt goodbye from his fellow Elk members at his funeral.

I next moved to the center of the cemetery to pay respects at the Hickman family, erected following the tragic and horrific death of Nellie Hickman and two children at their Sweetgrass County ranch.

But much to my surprise—you had to rub your eyes—there was a new piece of cemetery furniture installed at the Hickman marker. On the east side was a bench in the shape of a lion. I have never seen anything like it in a Montana cemetery.

The dedicated veterans section is near the west end of the cemetery. The local American Legion chapter established this humble, respectful section in 1950.

U.S. veterans from the Civil War era are also found in earlier sections of the cemetery. Peter McMartin served in a Colorado unit. James Woods served in. West Virginia unit.

McMaster worked as a sheep herder in the county. He died in 1909. Woods left the South after the war and farmed in Minnesota marrying his wife Elizabeth in 1873. They were still in Minnesota in 1880 but after the construction of the Northern pacific railroad they moved west. Woods died in 1901.

Nearby the two veterans is a beautifully carved child’s grave marker, Martin Habenicht who died only eight months old. Not far way, also in the cemetery’s west end, is a modern monument, to all of the children buried in the cemetery who did not have a tombstone.

What a commendable effort to identify all of these children! One side credits the hard work of three women and the support of the Big Timber Women’s Club. The children names are on the reverse side.

The cemetery is well maintained and watered. It is a restful place to visit although traffic noise from the nearby interstate interrupts quiet reflection.

Family plots are scattered throughout as subscriptions helped to pay for the cemetery’s creation. Many are adorned with beautiful markers.

Mabel Blakeslee died in 1901. She and her husband Grank operated the Blakeslee Hotel and were considered among the pioneers of Big Timber.

A stylish Art Deco style gravestone marks the plot of Abraham Grosfield’s family plot. He and his wife Alena emigrated to the United States in 1883. They were ranchers in the county. Alena died in 1940 and Abraham died in 1944. At his funeral at the Big Timber Lutheran Church, the minister sand a hymn in Norwegian.

Many more stories await exploration at this special place in Big Timber.

Calvary Cemetery in Miles City

Posted on September 18, 2026 by carrollvanwest

The Catholic graveyard in Miles City dates to the town’s first years and is located just uphill from the present-day Calvary Cemetery. The present cemetery dates to c. 1910-1920 when a new burial ground closer to irrigation was established. It is an active cemetery.

The irrigation allowed large mature trees to take root and prosper. It’s not very large but is well maintained and the foliage adds to the beauty of the grounds.

The grave marker at the foreground of the above photo belongs to Andrew (d. 1950) and his wife Susanna (d. 1948) Vail. Andrew Vail was a railroad man, who worked at the Milwaukee Road yards in Mobridge, SD, where the line crossed the Missouri River. He and Susanna later moved to Miles City.

Photo of Milwaukee yards displayed at Range Riders Museum in Miles City

Andrew undoubtedly would not recognize the town today, with the once extensive Milwaukee Yards mere shadows of themselves and with the once grand passenger station just hanging on as an industrial building.

The next image documents several gravestones of the Hartman family who moved from the area of Dickinson, North Dakota, to Custer County in the mid-30th century.

Mary Elizabeth “Betty” Hartman died in 1983. She was very active with the Sacred Heart Catholic Church in Miles City.

The large obelisk monument to Rudolph “Ralph” Sumer dates to 1912. Ralph was born in what is now Yugoslavia in 1870 but was ranching in the Etna community by the end of the century.

Calvary Cemetery is now over 100 years old and is a valuable yet often forgotten landmark in the county.

Custer County Cemetery in Miles City

Posted on September 7, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Located south of town on Montana Highway 59, the Custer County Cemetery dates to the first years of settlement in the 1880s.

However its current look of rows of trees and well manicured grounds dates to the mid-twentieth century and a rather unique New Deal project. In the summer of 1940 the Works Projects Administration gave the county $4,302 to “beautify and improve” the county cemetery.

WPA crews added stone retaining walls, new driveways, and a three-arch stone gateway to the property as part of its “public improvements.”

The family of Roy Montgomery who died 9 months old in 1895 purchased a metal Victorian designed grave marker.

Another Victorian style marker built from granite was placed to memorialize the Milligan family. Miles Howard Milligan (b. 1897) died in 1918. The Miles City Star of October 6, 1918 reported that Milligan died from the Spanish flu at the army training school at Boulder, Colorado. His funeral was a major community event, “with full military honors.” Later generations, including his wife Mary and son Miles, are also buried in this family plot.

Veteran graves may be found throughout the cemetery. For example, Joseph Taliaferro Brown (1849-1908) served in the Confederate Calvary from Mississippi under the command of Gen. Nathan B. Forrest during the Civil War then served in as a captain in the U.S. Calvary after the war. He came to Custer County in 1886 and established a cattle ranch along the Tongue River near Birney. A tall white obelisk marks his resting place.

Two other Civil War veterans buried at the cemetery fought for the United States during the Civil War and then served in the Sioux campaign of 1876. Lyman Smith (1846-1930) served in the 5th Wisconsin Infantry. In the summer of 1876 he was a civilian employee at the Tongue River cantonment, the precursor to Fort Keogh. At the cantonment and fort, Smith was “a wagon master, a hay cutter, and [had] various other occupations,” according to the Miles City Star, October 29, 1930.

Tom McFadden (1845-1896) served in the 2nd Kansas Cavalry and then as an “Indian scout” for Gen. Nelson Miles in 1896. He died at his powderville ranch after taking his own life once he had been kicked by a horse and knew he had no chance of surviving the accident. This story appeared in the Livingston Enterprise of September 5, 1896.

Most veteran graves are arranged in rows in a separate section of the cemetery, which is graced by the American flag. This section is a precursor to the much later Eastern Montana State Veterans Cemetery which is south of the Custer County Cemetery.

The cemetery is a beautiful spot and there are many stories within its boundaries. Older grave markers predominate but several more recently erected grave markers tell stories of the late 20th and 21st centuries.

I’m grateful that the WPA spent the money and time on this cemetery in 1940. New Deal agencies typically appropriated funds for other projects but this “public improvement” project certainly brings meaning and value to Miles City today.

Havre’s Historic Mount Hope Cemetery, Part 3

Posted on August 1, 2026 by carrollvanwest

In the fall of 2025, I paid my most recent visit to Mount Hope Cemetery, on the western side of Havre. Two posts in 2023 covered the basic history of what was the city’s first cemetery from the late 1880s. I will not repeat that information today.

My update centers on the western boundary of the cemetery where Japanese residents were buried in the first two decades of the 20th century. My earlier photos imdid not include details of several of these graves.

The single delineated family plot was that for the Hamaoka family. The father, marked as Y. Hamaoka, died in April 1913, a child died the next month. The wife/mother, listed as Mrs Y. Hamaoka, died two years later. My guess is that the wire fence and gate were placed around the graves in 1915.

Hamaoka was a clerk at the Oriental Trading Company in Havre. The Havre Promoter of May 2, 1913 noted that he and his wife had three children.

The next eight grave markers date from 1905-1909. They do not share a last name but may have been related or perhaps from the same city or village. Perhaps they were all associated with the Oriental Trading Company. A search in Havre newspapers through newspapers.com did not uncover any biographical information.

The Future for Bozeman’s modern landmark?

Posted on July 28, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Bozeman is one of those Montana towns where historic preservation has played a positive economic and cultural role in local development for two generations.

This it comes as a surprise when you hear that a public agency, in this case the federal General Services Administration, is considering letting the downtown landmark Federal Building pass from public hands.

The building dates to 1966, as is evident from its modern style, so 1960s. The firm of Hamill and Associates designed it in the New Formalist style made popular by architect E.D. Stone. It was built during a decade of growth, from a town of 13,000 in 1960 to a place of 18,000 by 1970. The new post office, and the agencies who were headquartered at the building, contributed significantly to the boom that occurred in Bozeman over the last third of the 20th century. In other words, important work took place here.

The city government has asked for the building to stay public, and be transferred to the city. It is listed in the National Register of Historic Places and the city has amply demonstrated the ability and the commitment necessary for the preservation and use of National Register properties. So let’s hope that transfer takes place. Bozeman cannot afford to lose another modernist landmark.

Vandalia and Tampico revisited

Posted on July 3, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Montana Highway 246 is one of those “side” roads that few travel, unfortunately, because if you go that way from the west toward Glasgow it will take longer than US Highway 2. But the time is well worthwhile because once you cross the Milk River (by way of a modern concrete bridge) you step back to the turn of the 20th century.

Vandalia has history as a late 19th century trading post at the crossing of the Milk River. Then it became one of the early milk River ranches. Once the Great Northern Railroad built its initial route westward the tracks came this way, following the river.

The tracks brought the first generation of homesteaders who built the white-painted frame school in 1912. The school later became the post office, and served that role when I first visited Vandalia in 1984.

When I next visited almost 30 years later, the post office had closed and the school was in rough condition. Imagine my delight when I next stopped in the fall of 2025. The school was taking on new life. The roof had been prepared and replaced, and prep work was underway to give it a fresh coat of paint.

The story was not so bright for the old bar and store that was next door. The old gas pumps were still there but the porch roof was sagging and it looked forlorn.

Original route US Highway 2 heading east toward Tampico

The drive remains fun, especially the graveled original route of US Highway 2 with the occasional Burlington Santa Fe freight train roaring by. Imagine driving cross country on this route when large sections of it remained unpaved.

The next town to the east is Tampico, established around 1908. In 2013 the town was tiny but showed some life. Twelve years later, the abandonment was striking.

Most early 20th century railroad towns across the northern plains struggle one hundred years later but those off the major highways, like Vandalia and Tampico, could easily disappear.

Great Falls Resurgence

Posted on July 3, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Montana newspapers this week featured a story about economic resurgence in Great Falls, where the population has remained basically level in the 21st century while other Montana cities have grown by leaps and bounds. Readers of this blog recognize that I am a big booster of what heritage and historic preservation has meant to the city, and certainly that pride in history and culture you find anytime you visit Great Falls as I found during a fall 2025 visit.

The proliferation of colorful, descriptive murals enliven downtown commercial buildings, including the highway underpass at the restored Milwaukee Road passenger station. the topic has been historic—witness the penetrating graze of town founder, Paris Gibson, below.

Or if it is a more abstract design in the city’s commercial heart ( the reproduction city street lights add charm too).

Downtown recreation is another positive change, as the river trail between the tracks of the Great Northern Railway and the Missouri River continues to expand and improve.

One of the state’s best skateparks also adds significantly to recreation, and community building in Great Falls.

And speaking to community building the restoration and adaptive reuse of downtown buildings create nighttime gathering spots, giving residents plenty of reason to come downtown. The Celtic Cowboy, located in a circa 1890 livery building, has become a popular pub while the owe era of Smoked took a 1930s building and made it a must-stop place for Barbeque.

Even the iconic Sip-N-Dip lounge has announced a renovation and improvements to this mid-20th century landmark.

My stop in Great Falls last October centered around a check of the renovation of the National Register-listed Union Bethel AME Church. Like many others I supported its grant application and I was pleased to see work underway to ensure another 100 years for this landmark.

No doubt the protection of the city’s historic buildings and finding new community uses for them continues as an anchor for Great Falls, be it the Children’s Museum or the impressive History Museum and Archives. Both are located along the city’s historic railroad corridor.

Preserving and telling local stories but Great Falls is further enhanced by two major national institutions—the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail interpretive center and the Charles M. Russell Museum.

The Russell continues to expand, and amaze, as it evolves from a regional to truly national cultural center. The city too is trending in that direction, which means that next visit will certainly be sooner than later.

St Marie: Cold War Ghost Town

Posted on May 31, 2026 by carrollvanwest

My first visit to what became known as St Marie came in 1984 when local Glasgow residents associated with the Valley county museum took me to the closed Glasgow Air Force Base, about 15 miles north of town. From the late 1950s to the 1970s, the base was an important cog in the Cold War military capabilities of the United States when huge B-52 bombers ruled the sky. Then suddenly it was not so important and the Air Force left.

The locals in 1984 spoke of grand plans, of how the Air Force was in the process of selling the base, building by building. That part was true. They gave me a booklet that explained the past purpose of each building and the value of each building at that time.

In 1984 it seemed unlikely to me that a new use could be found because the base was so big—its population was once 50% of the entire county—and it was so isolated. If the Air Force didn’t have a use for it, who would?

When I returned in 1988, the transformation of the base into civilian control was underway. Locals excitedly informed me of the new comprehensive plan to turn the base into a retirement community named St Marie, targeting veterans. The old support facilities would be humming once again and a golf course would be central to everything.

I was urged to invest now—get one of the officers homes, or half of a duplex for remarkably little—$27,500 for a 1,500 sq ft unit.

Obviously I passed on the opportunity, as did so many others who visited the community in the making over the next years. But enough said yes to give St Marie a fighting chance for a future. The promise didn’t last long, as several recent research articles detail. When I next visited Glasgow 25 years later in 2013, the folks at the museum didn’t urge me to buy—they told me to go and see what was left.

Rot, decay, mold were everywhere—but just like so many Montana ghost towns there remained a core group of residents who kept their homes well and expressed pride in what had been accomplished.

While key community buildings such as the chapel and post office/community center were closed, the flags were still flying proudly at the town hall. Officials spoke of a turnaround in the making.

I returned in the fall of 2025–more than 40 years after my first visit—to find hopes mostly extinguished. The deterioration of the chapel, community center, and schools was shocking—little hope there.

There were no flags flying at the town hall but everywhere it seemed there were new signs and barriers of the Montana Aviation Research Co. This private company was now using the runaways and had converted several buildings for employees’ use.

The population had cratered since 2013 but of those approximately 300 people who still called St Marie home, you have to admire their commitment to the place. Numerous homes were well maintained even with the signs of abandonment everywhere.

What will be left when I next visit this modern-day ghost town of the northern plains?

Pekin Noddle Parlor: Sad news from Butte

Posted on April 24, 2026 by carrollvanwest

Today’s newspapers (April 24, 2026) bore the sad news that the Tam family has decided to close the iconic Pekin Noodle Parlor in Uptown Butte. For well over 100 years the family operated from this 2-story brick building at 117 South Main.

The building is nearby to another historic Chinese associated building on West Mercury, which is home to a museum about the Chinese in Butte and Montana.

The Montana Standard sees the restaurant’s closing as a developing story so perhaps we will soon know about the future of the historic building

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