Terry in the Yellowstone Valley

Terry, the seat of Prairie County, is an often forgotten, bypassed part of the Yellowstone River valley. Yet it has long been one of my favorite places, beginning with my first exploration of its history and landscape in 1984.

The Yellowstone west of Terry in 1984

The valley is stunning—the river is wide and commanding buttes and badland outcroppings flank either river bank, as do the tracks of the Northern Pacific Railroad (now Burlington Santa Fe) on the river’s south side and the later automobile Yellowstone Trail (old U.S. 10).

The Yellowstone in 1984

Once from 1997 to c 1980 the tracks of the Milwaukee Road ran along the north side of the river, from east of Terry into Miles City. Today you can still see traces of its roadbed and right of way.

Milwaukee Road right of way, east of Terry, 2014

In the 1980s residents impressed me greatly with their sense of, and pride in, their settlement past.

Heritage tourism sign, c1985

For my work on the state historic preservation plan in 1984, I held a community meeting in Terry, at the recently established Prairie County Museum.

The county museum 1985

It was a converted State Bank Building, an architecturally impressive 2-story Classical Revival-style building, anchoring one of the corners of the business district. The historical society had basically just moved in and kept many of the ban’s interior details and furnishings and used them to place objects on.

Exhibits, c. 1988

The meeting was a lot of fun, at least for me. And I learned a valuable lesson—listen and observe, don’t immediately judge. The example was a small graveyard, near the confluence of the Yellowstone and Powder Rivers, where the museum had installed a low fence and basic interpretive sign.

Pioneer/Buffalo Hunters graveyard, 1984

I acknowledged that this site was clearly significant but offered that without an interstate highway sign (an exit was less than a mile away) or a marker on old U.S. 10, which was adjacent to the cemetery), “no one knows that it exists or where to find it.” One resident then remarked: “son, we know where it is and what it means.” I have never made that boneheaded mistake again.

Interpretive sign, US Highway 10, in 1984

In the 1980s, another museum devoted to the amazing photography of Evelyn Cameron was established, in a historic building next to the museum.

Cameron gallery, 1985
Cameron gallery, 2014

The impressive preservation work already underway in Terry was not the only reason I liked Terry. It was a “double railroad” town, that still had its northern Pacific depot at the top of the “T” in the classic t-town plan found in some many Montana towns.

Northern Pacific corridor, 1988

Then its county courthouse was one of the most unassuming public buildings in the state.

County Courthouse 1984

Plus there were two can’t miss heritage tourism experiences. The historic Kempton Hotel, a huge rambling, fascinating place is where I spent a night.

Kempton Hotel, 2014

And I probably had too much to eat and drink at the local bar/cafe, Bud ‘n’ Bette’s. Bud and Bette Goplen owned and operated the place. Bud died in the 1990s but Bette kept it going until the end of the century. Not only were the pours generous and the beer cold, but they sold one of the best caramel rolls in the valley. And yes it did have prints of C.M. Russell paintings plastered along the walls and a fairly size-able Jim Beam decanter and bottle collection. What a place!

Little did I know that when I visited Terry in 1984, 1985, and 1988, it was during its height. Today the town’s and county’s population is about half of what it was in the 1980s.

The business district in 1994
Business district in 2014

The county courthouse has been modernized and enlarged while the Northern Pacific depot has been moved to the museum’s block.

All images from 2014

Much had changed in the 20 years between visits in 1994 and 2014. When I had the chance to stop for a moment in 2026, I was concerned with the condition of the Northern Pacific caboose.

At the same time I was very happy to see the excellent condition of the early 20th century Terry school. It is a great building, so expressive of the founders’ hope for the town and county. 100 years ago.

School in 1988
School in 2026
School in 2026

I already noted in an earlier post the transformation of the hunters graveyard along old U.S. Highway 10–it is now one of the best interpreted sites along the Yellowstone River. Along the interpretive panels there is a short-distance walking trail with great views of the river plus you can easily see both the historic bridges over the Powder River at the confluence of the Powder and Yellowstone rivers.

All images from 2026

And residents of Prairie County are not done. In partnership with the Montana History Foundation, the state historical society, and the county economic development office, they have added other markers about the deep history of this place in the Yellowstone valley.

Just wish I had a caramel roll from Bud ‘n’ Bette’s!

Calvary Cemetery in Miles City

The Catholic graveyard in Miles City dates to the town’s first years and is located just uphill from the present-day Calvary Cemetery. The present cemetery dates to c. 1910-1920 when a new burial ground closer to irrigation was established. It is an active cemetery.

The irrigation allowed large mature trees to take root and prosper. It’s not very large but is well maintained and the foliage adds to the beauty of the grounds.

The grave marker at the foreground of the above photo belongs to Andrew (d. 1950) and his wife Susanna (d. 1948) Vail. Andrew Vail was a railroad man, who worked at the Milwaukee Road yards in Mobridge, SD, where the line crossed the Missouri River. He and Susanna later moved to Miles City.

Photo of Milwaukee yards displayed at Range Riders Museum in Miles City

Andrew undoubtedly would not recognize the town today, with the once extensive Milwaukee Yards mere shadows of themselves and with the once grand passenger station just hanging on as an industrial building.

The next image documents several gravestones of the Hartman family who moved from the area of Dickinson, North Dakota, to Custer County in the mid-30th century.

Mary Elizabeth “Betty” Hartman died in 1983. She was very active with the Sacred Heart Catholic Church in Miles City.

The large obelisk monument to Rudolph “Ralph” Sumer dates to 1912. Ralph was born in what is now Yugoslavia in 1870 but was ranching in the Etna community by the end of the century.

Calvary Cemetery is now over 100 years old and is a valuable yet often forgotten landmark in the county.

Great Falls Resurgence

Montana newspapers this week featured a story about economic resurgence in Great Falls, where the population has remained basically level in the 21st century while other Montana cities have grown by leaps and bounds. Readers of this blog recognize that I am a big booster of what heritage and historic preservation has meant to the city, and certainly that pride in history and culture you find anytime you visit Great Falls as I found during a fall 2025 visit.

The proliferation of colorful, descriptive murals enliven downtown commercial buildings, including the highway underpass at the restored Milwaukee Road passenger station. the topic has been historic—witness the penetrating graze of town founder, Paris Gibson, below.

Or if it is a more abstract design in the city’s commercial heart ( the reproduction city street lights add charm too).

Downtown recreation is another positive change, as the river trail between the tracks of the Great Northern Railway and the Missouri River continues to expand and improve.

One of the state’s best skateparks also adds significantly to recreation, and community building in Great Falls.

And speaking to community building the restoration and adaptive reuse of downtown buildings create nighttime gathering spots, giving residents plenty of reason to come downtown. The Celtic Cowboy, located in a circa 1890 livery building, has become a popular pub while the owe era of Smoked took a 1930s building and made it a must-stop place for Barbeque.

Even the iconic Sip-N-Dip lounge has announced a renovation and improvements to this mid-20th century landmark.

My stop in Great Falls last October centered around a check of the renovation of the National Register-listed Union Bethel AME Church. Like many others I supported its grant application and I was pleased to see work underway to ensure another 100 years for this landmark.

No doubt the protection of the city’s historic buildings and finding new community uses for them continues as an anchor for Great Falls, be it the Children’s Museum or the impressive History Museum and Archives. Both are located along the city’s historic railroad corridor.

Preserving and telling local stories but Great Falls is further enhanced by two major national institutions—the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail interpretive center and the Charles M. Russell Museum.

The Russell continues to expand, and amaze, as it evolves from a regional to truly national cultural center. The city too is trending in that direction, which means that next visit will certainly be sooner than later.

A fall drive along U.S. 12

When I lived in Helena from 1981 to 1985 one of my favorite jaunts was along U.S. Highway 12 from Townsend to Roundup. It remains so today, 40 years later. My initial interest centered on railroad corridors. Helena to Townsend followed the Northern Pacific Railroad and a good bit of the Missouri River (now Canyon Ferry Lake).

Northern Pacific bridge over Missouri River near Townsend
Missouri River and Canyon Ferry valley near Townsend
Missouri River campground near Townsend

It was a brilliant day with fall colors just popping as we left US 287 and turned into the heart of Townsend.

As soon as you leave town to the east you encounter a lovely mix of ranches and irrigated fields until you thread your way through a national forest along Deep Creek.

Fall colors along Deep Creek

We decided to continue east by briefly jumping off US 12 and go to Montana 284 so we could follow the Milwaukee Road corridor from Lennep to Martinsdale where we would reconnect with US 12. Two of my travelers had never been to the Milwaukee Road “ghost town” of Lennep. It was a beautiful morning to be there.

Milwaukee Road powerhouse

You first realize that this abandoned railroad corridor is different when you encounter an electric powerhouse—the Milwaukee Road’s tracks were electrified from Harlowton Montana west to Idaho.

Lennep

At Lennep the landmarks remain—the Trinity Lutheran Church, the store, the school, a teacher’s cottage and an early notched log house—but all were a little worse for the wear compared to my last visit 10 years earlier.

As we traveled east that morning we quickly moved through the county seats of Harlowton and Ryegate to get to Roundup by lunch. The Musselshell Valley was brilliant even as signs of the old railroad almost disappeared.

Near Ryegate
Near Lavina

Roundup continues its renaissance with new businesses and restored buildings. The town core, clustered around the intersection of US highways 12 and 87, was busy on a fall weekend.

A mural on the great cattle drive of 1989
The Backporch—great bbq
New mural at the Keg
Art studio doing well
Awaiting its renovation
Community green spot

As I observed a few years ago Roundup residents worked together and created a plan—and the place continues to work the plan, from the adaptive reuse of its historic stone school to the careful stewardship of its historic fairgrounds. It’s impressive.

After Roundup we stopped at two county seats on the return to Helena. Harlowton was rocked by the closing of the Milwaukee Road over 40 years ago. It has struggled to reach the economic comeback achieved at Roundup. But the historic stone buildings have great potential. Three of them are now part of a large museum complex.

Then there’s the newcomer: the Gally’s microbrewery and pub, housed in the 1913 Montana Block.

It’s a great place for local beer and good conversation—and maybe the start of something good for the town.

US Highway 12 was torn up for major repairs when I last visited White Sulphur Springs last decade. The improvement along its population growth and the ever expanding hot springs gives the place a new look, reflected in new catchy fronts to local bars along with new businesses such as a huge Town Pump.

But historic White Sulphur Springs is doing ok too: the New Deal constructed Meagher County Courthouse is still a roadside landmark while the old railroad corridor, just west of the Hot Springs, remains, awaiting its rebirth.

These places are mere highlights along a historic route that’s worth a drive anytime in the fall.

Milltown State Park, revisited

When I last explored Bonner and Milltown in 2015, the effort to reclaim the river landscape created at the confluence of the Blackfoot and Clark’s Fork rivers—but long hidden by past industrial uses—was underway but far from finished. At the end of September 2023 I was able to return to the park and see the transformation myself. It is a quite remarkable super-fund project that restored a natural landmark but also told a significant historical story.

At the confluence section of the park, the removal of the dam is now 15 years old and while you can still visualize its location, to many it must look like a place that hasn’t changed in decades.

The interpretation kiosk relates the changes well but I like how the park is not inundated with markers. Paved trails take you everywhere, and give you an up close but safe way to view the steel bridge of the Northern Pacific Railroad’s mainline along with the nearby but now abandoned tunnel for the Milwaukee Road.

Talk about a transportation crossroads for the Mountain West—still a great site from the Milltown Bridge where you have bridges for Montana 200, the Interstate and the two railroad lines easily viewable from the pedestrian bridge.

Trails that link the pedestrian bridge to the river were not complete in 2014 but now they are finished and give you another opportunity to go to the Blackfoot river bank.

Milltown State Park is a remarkable historical landscape, whether you explore by hiking, biking or by boat.

Harlowton’s Two Historic Cemeteries

My exploration of historic town cemeteries in Montana over the last two years ends at one of my favorite county seats, Harlowton, the seat of Wheatland County. Located on bluffs overlooking the Musselshell River, Harlowton is a classic railroad town, full of interesting and architecturally compelling buildings.

The two cemeteries share that significance. The city cemetery dates to c. 1907 and coincides with the construction of the Milwaukee Road through the valley.

A key focus of the cemetery is its veterans memorial, built with local stone in 1927 by the Al-Be-Dad Shrine Club. The stone pillar is topped with a gold American eagle, similar to other war memorials across the state from the 1920s. It is dedicated to all veterans of American wars.

The distinctive metal marker for June Adeline Ehler Vezey dates to 1997.

There are over 2000 burials at the Harlowton Cemetery. The Harlowton Catholic Cemetery is much smaller. The first burials took place in late 1907.

The prominent cross marker for Leopold Labrie is dated 1884 but probably represents a memorial. Other family members are buried nearby.

The rectangular shape of the cemetery is defined by a high hedge that surrounds it.

Both cemeteries are irrigated and well maintained, a reflection of the deep respect for their past held by residents of Harlowtown and Wheatland County.

Terrible News: the Burning of the Graves Hotel: a Harlowton landmark

Heard this afternoon that the Graves Hotel, a National Register landmark in Harlowton , has been lost to fire.

The Graves hotel in 2021
Site of Graves Hotel, May 2023
Graves Hotel, Harlowton, MT, 1984

One of my favorite places and the last place I stayed in Montana in 1985 before moving to Tennessee

Graves Hotel in 2014

One of the best railroad hotels in Montana from the days of the Milwaukee Railroad c. 1908.

Graves Hotel 1987
Graves Hotel 1985
Graves hotel 1985

Harlowton and the Milwaukee Road Division Point

In my work of 1984-85 for the state historic preservation plan, there were few places in Montana that fascinated me more than Harlowton, a division point for the Milwaukee Road and the place where the railroad began its electric line to the west.

from the Milwaukee Road Depot Museum at Harlowton.

The line abruptly stopped work in 1980 and declared bankruptcy, devastating not only Harlowton but many other towns and villages in the west. By the time I began my work in 1984 the dismantling of the railroad was well underway, and I was playing catch-up as track was ripped up for the steel and buildings began deteriorating.

Colleagues in the preservation field had been at work on documenting and understanding the railroad’s history. Dale Martin produced an insightful overview of the railroad and its landmarks for the Montana Historical Society Press in the 1980s. Others carried out preservation studies and in the cities key landmark depots became restored office buildings, restaurants, and other businesses.

But the complex in Harlowton–despite its overall significance to the railroad’s story and its national significance–withered. Compared to the resources in Butte, Missoula, and Great Falls, where the depots were already under preservation and adaptive reuse, the task at Harlowton just seemed to be overwhelming, and some said impossible. Below are copies of some of the images that I took from the mid-1980s to c. 1990, which mark the deterioration of the division point complex but also the fact that resources were there–they just needed help.

the passenger station from the rail yard c. 1985
passenger station and abandoned tracks, c. 1985
the roundhouse and maintenance shops c. 1985
roundhouses and maintenance shops c. 1985
interior of roundhouse c. 1985
interior of roundhouse c. 1985

The division point complex was listed in the National Register in 1988 and by the 1990s some preservation efforts and underway, with the installation of a historical marker and some repair work on the passenger station.

repair work from the town (street side)
repair work and roundhouse in background, c. 1990

Would enough help come in time to preserve this nationally significant place–by start of the 21st century I thought not. Imagine my complete delight in 2021 when visited the magnificently restored passenger station, which had become a well-conceived and executed museum, not just about the Harlowton division point but a place of research for the entire line.

passenger station and railcars from the rail yard
Part of the archives and library room for researchers.
The Winnecook post office has been moved to the site as another museum building

What has been in accomplished in the last few years is impressive and must be commended. What an achievement by a group of dedicated volunteers and residents. Finally, one of Central Montana’s most important stories can be fully explored. But, still, there is work to be done, on the roundhouses and maintenance buildings.

I look forward to my next visit to Harlowton and the continued preservation and interpretation of this nationally significant property in the railroad history of not just Montana but the United States.

Ryegate Cemetery, Golden Valley County, Montana

Ryegate, facing north

During a break in the infection rates of the pandemic in the late spring of 2021, I was able to get to Montana and spend a bit over a week considering historic cemeteries in places large and small. Many of these towns I had visited multiple times, such as Ryegate, the seat of Golden Valley County along U.S. Highway 12. A town that developed along the mainline of the Milwaukee Road about 115 years ago, Ryegate is a small town, population 223 in 2020, nestled between the railroad tracks, highway, and the bluffs of the Musselshell River.

Ryegate’s Main Street MT 238), on a quiet weekday midday

The cemetery is located on a rising set of hills as you travel south on Montana 238, perhaps a mile or so south of the railroad tracks. A white picket fence marks it and a metal gate allows access.

There are no grave markers that are large and pretentious, a reflection of the hard life but solid values of a rural community of ranchers and homesteaders. With markers covering every decade of the twentieth century, the cemetery is an understated but telling marker of community continuity, faith, and pride.

The family plot marked by a low concrete wall topped by local rocks–a tradition you find more in the south than in Montana.
This early sandstone marker is one of the very few disfigured by time in the cemetery.

Barber, a disappearing Milwaukee Road Town

Barber, Montana

I first visited Barber, a Milwaukee Road-associated town in the Musselshell River Valley, in 1984. Now almost 40 years later, I revisited the place to see, particularly, if the landmark Grace Lutheran Church still stood. Yes, indeed, it has survived another four decades, but now had a handicap access ramp to better serve its aging congregation.

Grace Lutheran Church photo from 1984
Grace Lutheran Church, Barber, MT
Grace Lutheran Church, Barber, MT

This vernacular Gothic styled building dated from 1917–the one decade of Barber’s prosperity–and when I visited in 1984 it was the smallest American Lutheran congregation in the country. Its defining Gothic architectural elements–the Gothic window hoods and the tracery in the gable ends–remain intact. Clearly the surrounding ranch families are effective stewards for this National Register-listed jewel of a rural northern plains church.

Barber, MT

I noted in 1984 that a store still operated–but now it is barely hanging so, with the foundation has failed and you wonder how much longer its false-front facade will remain standing. I observed that all that was left of the town bank was the vault–that is still there–but a two-story turn-of-the-century house is now abandoned, almost on its last legs.

Abandoned Victorian-styled house, Barber, MT

The Milwaukee Road created scores of towns similar to Barber across the plains in the first two decades of the twentieth century. One hundred years later–some 40-plus years since the railroad went bankrupt–a few buildings remain at these spots on the map, physical reminders of the homesteading boom and bust of that era. Hats off to the residents keeping Grace Lutheran Church alive–as along the church remains, there will be a Barber, Montana.