White Sulphur Springs and Taylor Gordon

Taylor Gordon was one of Montana’s most accomplished performers of the early twentieth century, although his fame as a singer happened not in Montana but in New York City.

Main Street, White Sulphur Springs, 2011

He was born in 1893 and grew up in White Sulphur Springs, the seat of Meagher County. While his family home no longer stands, there are several important landmarks that help tell his story.

The depot in 1984. It had been restored two years earlier for the movie Heartland

The first is the surviving depot for the White Sulphur Springs and Yellowstone Park railroad which connected the town to the main line of the Milwaukee Road at the town of Ringling, about 20 miles to the south. Both places are important to Gordon’s story due to his association with John Ringling.

Overview of Ringling, 2018
Milwaukee Road depot and tracks at Ringling 1985

Ringling was a town first named Leader when the Milwaukee Road came through Meagher County in 1907. It became associated with circus magnate John Ringling who owned thousands of acres of ranch land in the county and had big dreams for developing the area, including ranches, the hot springs, and railroads. Milwaukee Road officials were interested too in having an attraction for passenger traffic on the way to its terminus to Yellowstone at Gallatin Gateway.

Parberry-Ringling house, built c. 1885. It is now an events center

Around 1910 Ringling acquired the Dr. William Parberry house, a Queen Anne style house at the western end of town. Parberry had been one of the town’s founders. Ringling made it a family summer home. By 1911 he had hired Taylor Gordon as a driver, and general worker on the property. Within months Gordon became what we now might call a personal assistant (Ringling’s personal valet) and he traveled extensively with Ringling. Those travels led to his music career, especially as a duet act with J. Rosamond Johnson who accompanied Gordon on the piano. Their interpretations of African American spirituals gained wide acclaim. They toured throughout the nation in addition to England and Europe.

During these years Gordon was a significant figure in the Harlem Renaissance, which influenced American music, art, and literature. His memoir of growing up and finding his voice, and place, as a singer—titled Born to Be—was published in 1929. The book remains an important source on the Harlem Renaissance as well as the life of a young man in New York City during the Jazz Age.

Gordon and Johnson continued performing into the early 1930s. In the mid 1930s he temporarily moved back to White Sulphur Springs and wrote a novel, which was never published. The Great Depression stalled his career and by WW II he was a factory worker. In 1947 he fell prey to mental illness and was hospitalized for most of the next 12 years. In 1959 he returned to White Sulphur Springs.

Wellman Block, 1985

His sister Rose operated a cafe from the Wellman Block. Gordon would open an antique shop there, and the building also served as the town’s post office at that time. Twenty years ago, the Wellman Block was renovated into the headquarters of Red Ants Pants, a nationally recognized clothing line for work clothes. Red Ants Pants also organizes and hosts an annual music festival in Meagher County. The building is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

Wellman Block, 2011

The Gordons became significant local historians in the 1960s and 1960s. Rose contributed history columns to the county newspaper and was a leader in the county’s centennial celebration in 1967. Taylor became involved with the restoration of the historic Sherman House, known as The Castle, the town’s first major historic preservation project. It too is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.

The Castle, 1984
The Castle, 2011

Gordon assisted with the interior restoration and furnishings for the museum. He also wrote the house’s first history and guidebook.

As a youngster he had worked for Byron Sherman, the topic of his book and the owner of the stone mansion. The Meagher County Historical Society guided the restoration and today the society administers the house and adjacent museum.

Like other members of his family Taylor Gordon was buried at the Mayn Cemetery in White Sulphur Springs upon his death in 1971.

His story is remarkable and the surviving historic properties allow us to walk in his footsteps.

Veterans Memorials Across Montana

Meagher Co White Sulpher Springs Mayn Cemetery 8 - Version 2On this Memorial Day 2017 it is appropriate to celebrate the many memorials created by Montanans to recognize and commemorate the citizen soldiers who have served the armed forces of the United States.  I am not adding much commentary because the memorials, both large and small, speak powerfully for themselves, and reflect the best of our values as a nation.

Garfield Co Jordan war memorial

One of my favorite new veterans memorials is in Jordan, one of Montana’s smallest county seats, where memorial statuary and plaques with names of those who served stand proudly in the heart of the town.

Lake Co Arlee school memorial 2Another compelling new memorial, at least it was installed after my historic preservation plan survey of 1984-1985, are these granite slabs, framed by the mountains, at Arlee.

Dillon war memorial 1

Dillon war memorial 3Dillon had significantly expanded its earlier veterans memorial (on the left) along the federal highway into an impressive new city park, the Southwest Montana Veterans Memorial.

Ennis Veterans Memorial (New Deal?)Even with the many changes in Ennis, the town has maintained its Veterans Memorial Park as a beautiful public park.

Flathead Co Kalispell veterans memorial

Another change was in Kalispell where the town had significantly expanded an earlier veterans memorial into one of the state’s most impressive monuments, located at the historic start of town on the grounds of the railroad depot.

Another city park with a veterans memorial theme is in Lewistown, where the nuclear missile tells you the role that central Montana still plays in our national defense.

Vets Memorial, US 93, HamiltonHamilton’s veterans memorial along U.S. Highway 93 will be a landmark for generations.

Blaine Co Harlem air pilot memorial 1992

There are many more that could be included in this overview but for today I will end with another “new” memorial, at Harlem along U.S. Highway 2.  This somber memorial is to a nearby plane crash in 1992 that claimed the lives of thirteen airmen: an event that shook this tiny town, and now will be forever remembered.

Blaine Co Harlem air pilot memorial detail

 

 

Montana’s Community Gymnasiums

The state basketball tournaments have been all of the talk in Montana newspapers and communities over the last three weeks, and in places like Belt, in Cascade County, they are celebrating state championships this March morning.

Cascade Co Belt school

Gyms were not on my mind particularly when I carried out the 1984-1985 historic preservation plan survey for the Montana State Historic Preservation Office, but even then I picked up on some of the community gyms created by the WPA during the New Deal, such as the one in Virginia City, an unassuming building if there ever was one, and then

VC gym, rear

VA City WPA gym, community center

the tiny log construction gym for Sanders, a tiny community in Treasure County, seen below.  Both the Virginia City and the Sanders gyms are listed in the National Register of

Community Hall Sanders Treasure Co 2

Community Hall Sanders Treasure Co 4

Historic Places, but the state has dozens of other worthy community gyms, that are very much at the center of recreational, sports, and social life in these towns and counties. Some await new fates and new futures, such as the gyms in Pony, Madison County, also on

Pony school gym

the National Register, and the more architecturally distinct Craftsman-styled community gym built for Whitehall in Jefferson County.

Gym, facade, Whitehall

Others date to mid-century and their more modern styles reflect their function–the half-barrels roofs–but they also dominate the one buildings around them, such as the high school gym in White Sulphur Springs, Meagher County, seen below.

Meagher Co White Sulpjur Springs school 2

Then there is the frankly spectacular modern-style gym of Twin Bridges, in the state’s southwest corner, with its sweeping overhanging roof.

Twin bridges gym

But wherever you encounter community gyms, you can tell from their location and maintenance, these are buildings of local pride and achievement, and places necessary to community life when so much else is scattered and disconnected.

McCone Co Circle school 3

Gymnasium in Circle, McCone County.

Powell Co HS Gym

Powell County High School Gym, Deer Lodge.

Lake Co Polson gym

High School Gym, Polson, Lake County.

Phillips Co Malta old gym

The “Old Gym” in Malta, Phillips County

Communities across Montana are clearly proud of their gyms, and even when new ones come along, they find new uses for the stately buildings, like the conversion of the old gymnasium below, located in Boulder, into a fine arts theater, which is just one example of this type of adaptive reuse project in the state.

Gym facade, Jefferson County high school, Boulder

Here’s to new futures, grounded in meaningful pasts, for these community, and often times architectural, landmarks across the Big Sky Country. As a group, they are powerful reminders of the importance of community spaces in the counties, both urban and rural, of Montana.

Flathead Co Kalispell high school gym 1

Art Deco styled gymnasium, Kalispell, Flathead County

 

 

Meagher County: Crossroads between East and West Montana

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Meagher County Courthouse, White Sulphur Springs, 2007. One of the best New Deal era courthouses in the state.

Meagher County has been a place that I drive through rather constantly.  If you take U.S. Highway 12 east/west or U.S. Highway 89 north/south–both are important historic roads–you pass through this county where the central plains meet the mountains of the west.  The county seat of White Sulphur Springs is near the crossroads of the two federal highways, and home to one of the great roadside cafes of the state, what we always called the Eat Cafe, since the only marker it had was a large sign saying “Eat.”

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And the old historic bar, the Bucka-Roo Bar , was not a bad place either to grab a beer on a hot, dry day.  It is not the only commercial building of note.  The town has both the

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classic Victorian era commercial block but also the 1960s modernist 1960s gas station.

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The Wellman Block, now home to Red Ants Pants, was built in 1911 and is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.  Red Ants Pants is the sponsor of an annual Americana music festival outside of the town that ranks as the highlight of the summer in this part of the state.  Next door to the Wellman Block is the historic Strand Theatre.

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The reason I came to White Sulphur Springs in 1984 was none of these places–it was to visit the local historic house museum, a granite stone Romanesque styled house known as The Castle.  It was rather amazing to everyone in preservation back then that a tiny town

2011 MT Meagher County 010

had tackled the tough task of preserving a historic house as a local museum–especially one so far away from the interstate visitor.  Byron Sherman had the house constructed in 1892, with rock taken from the nearby Castle Mountains.  This stockman wanted to show that livestock could pay, and pay well out in the wilds of central Montana.  It has been a tough go for The Castle over the last 30 years.  The local historical society built a new storage building adjacent to the house but the house itself doesn’t get enough visitors.  The town’s major landmark in 1984, it seems almost an afterthought today.

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That neglect is really no fault of the house, its story, or its keepers.  It is the reality after a nearby ranch house–famous in 1984 but closed to visitors, even someone as intrepid as me, back then.  Of course I am speaking of the Bair Ranch, east of White Sulphur Springs in Martinsdale.  Its story comes in the next post.

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