John C. Paulsen, Montana architect

One of the most important late 19th century architects in Montana was German-born and -trained John C. Paulsen (1853-1897). He arrived in Helena in 1887 and soon joined with contractor Noah McConnell to establish the firm of Paulsen & McConnell, which existed until its dissolution in 1891.

One of the firm’s early commissions, the Jefferson County Courthouse in Boulder, enhanced its reputation for public architecture. its stately mix of brick and stone, dominated by a central tower with a commanding arch entry makes it one of the state’s most impressive Late Victorian era designs.

The firm had many significant commissions for private homes in Helena in the years 1887-1890. A select few that are listed in the National Register of Historic Places are shown below:

Sienna Hall, 1887 (1986 photo)
Spalding-Gunn House, 1888-1889, which was part of Preserve Montana’s 2025 Hidden Helena tour
A remodel of the Wilbur F. Sanders House, c 1887 (1988 photo)
Neill House, c. 1888, remodeled significantly by Cass Gilbert, 1908 (1986 photo)
Image of Neill House before Cass Gilbert remodeling, image courtesy of P.L. Dean, Helena

Perhaps most importantly there was Paulsen’s own home on the west side of town, which was built in 1889 and featured in the Hidden Helena 2025 tour. From the exterior the home doesn’t seem too splashy but the interior is one of the city’s best Arts and Crafts styled interior designs..

Another Helena landmark attributed to Paulsen is the Lewis and Clark County Jail, which was converted about 100 years later to the Myrna Loy Theatre.

Lewis and County Jail (1996 image)

One of Paulsen’s commercial buildings in Helena still stands, altered at an unknown date, on east Broadway.

Image taken in 2018

With John Lavalle as a partner, Paulsen also designed the downtown Montana Club but after a fire and major redesign by Cass Gilbert, nothing remains of Paulsen’s design outside of some of the stone, perhaps, reused on the first floor.

A much more intact example of Paulsen’s commercial designs is the landmark Higgins Block in downtown Missoula, another National Register building associated with Paulsen’s work.

Higgins Block, c 1986 image
Higgins Block, 2006 image

In 1895, Paulsen was appointed State Architect and several of Montana’s best known turn of the 20th century public buildings are from his designs.

First the Montana Deaf and Dumb Asylum in Boulder (images from 1986 to 2021):

One of my favorites, the original building for Montana Western College (now Montana State University Western) in Dillon:

The Butte landmark Main Hall at Montana Tech University

And Paulsen’s best known building, the iconic Main Hall of Montana State University in Bozeman.

Paulsen’s career became mired in controversy over the design of the new state Capitol building in Helena. After grand jury investigations in 1897 Paulsen allegedly had a nervous breakdown that led to heart complications and he died in Helena. Yet his late Victorian designs for many home and public buildings remain as a reminder of his imprint on the state’s built environment.

Last notes on Bozeman, for now

IMG_6984Few places in Montana, or for the nation for that matter, have benefited more from historic preservation and heritage development than Bozeman. To see a grain elevator complex find new uses and life in a century where grain elevators are typically a relic of a bygone era, tall hulking figures on the northern plains landscape, you discover that so much of our historic built environment can be re-imagined and put back into use.

No doubt Bozeman has changed markedly in this century–as the 2007 photo of the  Masonic Lodge and Army-Navy store (a place I frequented in the 1980s) as given way in 2015 to a bike and ski shop. Yet the landmark sign–with the horse rearing up as if to say what the hell is going on here–remains, a bit of the old cowtown of the past.

The fraternal lodges and the American Legion remaining on Main Street is an important link to a past when these organizations were central to the town’s growth and development–mainstays of community still today as their eagles fly high over the business district.

Gallatin Co Bozeman St James Episcopal ChurchThe town’s historic churches are other important anchors.  Listed in the National Register of Historic Places, St. James Episcopal Church is a distinguished statement of Gothic Revival executed in locally quarried sandstone designed by architect George Hancock of Fargo, North Dakota and built by local contractor James Campbell in 1890.

Gallatin Co Bozeman Theory Building 1Preservation efforts 30 years ago were focused on Main Street landmarks, with much success.  But the combination of preservation and adaptive reuse has moved into the town’s railroad corridor with similar positive results, and the number of historic neighborhoods have multiplied.

But work remains to be accomplished, as the 2015 effort to Raise the Rialto on Main Street shows–yet the number of partners involved also show how the audience for preservation has grown over the years.  Montana State University is a key component for the future too.  The university’s growth over a generation is astounding. Its

historic core has never looked better.  The question with the university is growth and how that is managed for the benefits of the students, but also the neighborhood and community that surrounds the university.  If growth deteriorates the community, then students lose–the lure of Bozeman and its many attractions become that much less.

Just as old and new MSU co-exist in harmony so too must historic Bozeman and every expanding MSU remain partners, in communication, and working together.

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